Hydraulic Disc Brake

The disc brake hydraulic driven is an increasingly common item to find, so we thought we’d share with you the tips made by redaction of Bike Magazine:

Gum

The hydraulic disc brake pads to bike are identical to those used in motor vehicles, kept the proper proportions.

Here at bicyclebazzar, you can check more details about disc brake for bike.

Are usually made of steel, but may have the base made of aluminum or titanium. This combination of materials is intended to generally weight relief and maintenance of heat.

Already the “pad”, which is the part that touches the disc, can be made of various materials, but the different types of Constitution of the insert directly affect on power and braking feel.

Pay attention to the time to replace the pads. Most current hydraulic disc brakes has an open system, that is, while the pad wears out the brake makes up for this “space” with brake fluid. So, the feeling is an efficient brake even with the pills well spent.

Despite this sense of normalcy, if gum wear completely, may result in the possible destruction of the brake system due to overheating resulting from contact of steel with steel, i.e. disk with the base of the Insert.

Normally manufacturers report the minimum dimensions for safe use in their manuals. Always consult the manual of your equipment, because there are important information that should be taken into consideration.

Hoses

The hoses for disc brakes are responsible for driving the oil inside the brake system. Worth doing periodic investigation on structure of hoses, since over time and with normal attrition resulting from the use, the hoses can present wear resulting from friction with conduits and/or other parts of the bike.

This wear leads to weakening of the hose, due to great internal pressure may rupture if there is any rift.

If the hose is too long or too short, look for a professional to do the fitness; If too long, reduce, if too short, replace. I advise you seek a professional due to the complexity of the process, demand for material and equipment suitable for the task.

Fluid exchange

The ideal time for the replacement of the brake fluid is when the brake changes in power and if possible show (some shells allow you to be opened), change the fluid to notice change in original colour.

Over time and due to the use, the fluid ends up being contaminated with residues released into the system, hence the need for periodic exchange of fluid.

In the case of DOT fluid, watch out for the fact that this fluid is hygroscopic, that is, has the characteristic of absorbing moisture from the air. In these cases the maintenance intervals must be smaller than in the case of a brake that uses mineral fluid, although following the same rule: to feel loss of power or any change to the brakes, look for a mechanic for inspection.

Important!
Always look for a professional who use tools and methodology specified by the manufacturer.

Contamination

Bike disc brakes have a certain sensitivity about the contamination, so avoid touching the discs.

An obvious reason is that they may be hot. Another reason is that our hands are not invariably so clean and carry fat waste.

So, if you touch the disc, you can decrease the braking efficiency and cause noise (skin oils).

Another type of contamination occurs at the time of bloodletting, when the mechanic initiates the procedure (if he doesn’t remove any residue of Earth or dirt) contained within the nozzle of the sangria, this residue is literally pushed into the brake system, contaminating the fluid and causing scratches on pistons and brake calipers.

There are no 100% effective ways to clean discs and pads, therefore, avoid the most contamination.

Burning process

Process that must be performed on any disc brake to ensure good braking. This information is present in the user manuals of the best brakes. Always follow the instructions for use of its equipment, only in this way can be guaranteed the best equipment performance.

How should it be done? The burning process is simple and consists in transferring a small layer of compost of the Insert to the brake disc. This increases consistently brake efficiency.

The disks need to be burned and the inserts need to be polished. When overriding one or another, or on a new bike, follow the steps below to get the most out of your brakes.

  • Always remember that if a disk is replaced, the pads should be replaced also.
  • Burn a disc refers to the transfer of some block compound to the surface of the disk. This helps in the grip of the Insert to the disk. Polishing pads refers to polishing the surface of the pads so that they have a greater adherence to the disk.
  • Takes about 20 stops for that firing occurs. It is important to do it in safe conditions.
  • Preferably on the asphalt, grab the bike and cycle until you reach a good speed, and then firmly and evenly, activate the brakes until the bike come to almost a complete stop. Repeat this process 10 to 20 times.
  • If the bike is used long before the burning, the process can be ruined. Signs that this occurred are noise and lack of power.

Adjustments

  • The adjustment range is the possibility to approach or depart from the script to the brake lever.
  • Free course is the setting that determines how much the drive knob moves without triggering the Pistons.
  • Contact is the adjustment of the distance between the disc and the brake pads.

In the mood for a good Bike with disc brake? Meet our Kawasaki line:

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